P40 build with pictures

[The Flying Panda]

hey everyone,
I am aslo working on the warhawk, i prety much built it except i had to move. The plane got destroyed in the back of my truck.
I already stripped off most of the tissue and repaired the stick breaks.
i made some modifications and added moveable aelrons to the wings. i am in the process of finding some micro servos, motor, battery and reciever. You guessed it im making the p4o warhawk RC. the area around the aelrons are being a pain to cover because of my odd design. when i get a camera ill try to show u all. the actual flap parts are covered in ultra coat, the rest will be tissue. I havnt a clue to the weight factor yet. all i can say is ill need a powerful motor yet small. Ive already got my eye on a parkszone p51 engine. If youve got any other ideas let me know.
because the rear wing snapped, i glued it and one sides a hair longer than the other i think. i may have some problems there. maybe ill build a new rear wing.

Have a super awesome Christmas people and a Supreme New Year.
The Flyn Panda

[Mustang621]

What did you mean when you said you still needed to "scallop the formers"? I would appreciate that explanation as I am about to build this same model.

Thanks

[cliffm]

Scalloping as refered to here is when you remove excess balsa from the fuselage formers in the area between the stringers. You can also remove quite a bit of extra weight from the inside of the formers. You need to be careful and pay attention to where the covering ends as not to lose the shape of the fuselage when removing material from the formers. If you search thru the older pages you will find mention and advice on more lightening techniques from people with a lot more experience than I. Have fun!

[Mustang621]

Thanks for the explanation! I eventually need to try to fly one of these kits just to say i have done it.

[lukebozek1]

Take a small paintbrush, wrap some fine sandpaper around it and run it between the stringers and sand a concave opening so that the tissue will set on the stringers, not the formers. Makes for a nice smooth line without the former transitions, but repairs are a little tougher without a former to anchor the tissue on.
On the other hand, if you are doing work like Scigs you just don't do repair work. Frankly I am tired of looking at these perfect works of art. Sure the paint in the nose doesn't match. Really? Please wait while I get the hanky. This is a really gorgeous plane. I am finishing up a 500 series Spitfire and up to this point, I have never done a 500 series kit. I just picked up the Hawker and plan on a couple more. But it won't look like this. Actually, I always leave some minor error in my work because my wife says that perfection belongs to God. But I will show her these pictures, so she can see what Perfect really looks like.

[Mustang621]

question on this plane...I can't seem to figure out where the B9, B10 and B11 formers fit. I did not see them listed on the side of the plans with the fuselage lay out. I am in mid drying stage so can't really flip them over to see if it is on the back side. Any hints?

[scigs30]

I think those are the ones that go on the bottom of the wing after the wing is covered and attatched to the fuselage.

[Mustang621]

Ok thanks, looking at your plane pics I think i figured it out. you cover the wing and fuselage glue the wing in place then put them on add stringer and then cover so it makes it like the wing is in between the fuselage "layers"...that sound right?

[ADW 123]

thats corect

[yobdab]

It would be nice to see details on a proper adjustable nose block. I know I have seen pictures before, but a series of pictures with descriptions with be a great help.

I agree, as a newcomer I find this to be frustrating!!

[ADW 123]

search "bird dog build" ive put a noseblock on that. all it really is, is a piece of balsa fit to the nose cone. then, you cut a hole in the front of the fuse, a square. then you make two holes. one in the nose cone wich has the piece of balsa we put put in after the hole is there (hole should be big enuff to fit the prop shaft in and out dont forget about the hook) then, you make another square, but this should fit snugg inside of the one on the fuse. carefully drill a hole big enough the the prop shaft and line it up so that when it is all assembled, the nose cone is straight as you put it on. thats for smaller models