Where I'm At

[CedarBranchFisher]

I am building a 402 P-51. didn't realize it was as big as it was. My first build, never completed was a Messerschmidt. That was over 40 years ago. I have the fuselage, wing, stabilizer, and tail/rudder assembled. I tried to upload a photo through Photobucket but had no luck. I have to shape the leading edge of the wing to blend with the ribs. Should I also "taper" the leading edge of the stabilizer and tail/rudder assembly? After that I suppose I am ready to apply tissue. What is the "easiest", least trouble-free way, wet or dry?
P.S. the reason I never finished my first model, my ship went through a stretch of water known as the "Roaring 40's" and I thought I had every thing properly secured in my work area. Needless to say, my Messerschmidt ended up a MESSerschmidt. It looked like it came out on the losing end of a dog fight.
Any advice would be appreciated.

[SteveM]

We would check stowage for sea by doing "angles and dangles" which would dislodge every item not bolted or strapped down and was very helpful for finding wrenches that got misplaced, just make sure you pick a wall to stand on that is out of the path of flying objects.

Yes, you'll want to round the leading edges of the tail feathers and taper the trailing edge. Basically you want the same kinds of edges as the wing has but symmetrical on both sides.

The easiest covering is with silkspan, but I don't recall if the 400 series P-51 came with silkspan or tissue paper. I think it is silkspan which is good as it is stronger and easier to work with, if yours has tissue you may want to look for some silkspan. I would cover dry with a glue stick to glue it on, but sometimes areas like the air scoop are easiest covered wet as it is easier to work wet silkspan around complex curves than when it is dry. Some don't like glue sticks and prefer Elmer's glue or Dope, so just stick with whichever seems to work the best for you. If in doubt, build a test frame from scrap balsa and practice on it.

[CedarBranchFisher]

SteveM, thanks for the advice. I had a shelf unit lashed "securely" but we rolled and pitched so much the sfelf unit actually sawed the rope in two. Crash! I'll try to find out if it's tissue or silkspan. Where I live way out in the country, the nearest hobby shop is 35 miles away.

[SteveM]

I'll try to find out if it's tissue or silkspan.

It looks like the 400 series is supposed to have silkspan so hopefully your kits has it. Take a piece and get it wet, if it turns to mush and disintegrates it is tissue, but if it stays intact till you give it a good solid tug then it is silkspan.

[CedarBranchFisher]

Here is where I'm at, and Guillows confirmed I do, indeed have silkspan.
Unfortunately, my photo is cut off, not showing the stabilizer and tail/rudder section but it give you an idea of what I have so far. Now to get some hunnydos out of the way so I can get back to the important stuff.

[BassettsAllSorts]

Looking really good I can't wait to see the finished plane!

[CedarBranchFisher]

I would cover dry with a glue stick to glue it on,

Are we talking about an Elmer's School Glue Stick, purplish in color, just rub it on and stick on the silkspan? Will one coat be sufficient, or does it need to dry and have several coats applied like the instructions read for Elmer's "regular" glue?

[SteveM]

Are we talking about an Elmer's School Glue Stick, purplish in color, just rub it on and stick on the silkspan? Will one coat be sufficient, or does it need to dry and have several coats applied like the instructions read for Elmer's "regular" glue?

The glue stick used is usually UHU brand and it goes on purple and dries clear. Some say that other brands work well too, but I've never had a problem finding the purple UHU sticks for about $1 each in craft stores and some office supply stores, not to mention online sources like Amazon. When using a glue stick you don't have to seal the wood first and you only need to apply one coat of it. It's pretty sticky and dries more slowly than dope so you have plenty of time to work with it and reposition if needed. Should it get too dry on you just apply a little alcohol to reactivate the glue.

This link gives a pretty thorough explanation of the process, though I find my glue stick has lasted far longer and I rarely use alcohol.

[CedarBranchFisher]

Great, thanks! and so quick, too!

[CedarBranchFisher]

I took a "short" vacation from model building and am planning on getting back to work on my P-51. I am going to use UHU glue to stick my silkspan onto the frame. After the silkspan is attached, what do I have to do to the silkspan, Elmer's 50/50 solution sprayed on, clear lacquer, spray paint? A little slow on the uptake, not sure how to "strengthen" the tissue.

[Mitch]

The silkspan tissue is very nice... I would cover dry, get it taught, then spray with water... It will need to be sealed then painted if you like... the alternative is to use colored tissue. I get mine from EasyBuilt

Here is a pic of my 'stang I built aboard my ship last year in the Gulf of Alaska...


I call her "Miss B. Haven" but she has flown very well...


Here she is flying with the guillows supplied rubber. Got about a dozen flights before the rubber was "tired" and retired... I plan to do some trimming and fly her agiain with tan rubber.

Mitch

[CedarBranchFisher]

Thanks, Mitch. I've always wondered what kind of "flight" you would get out of a rubber-band powered plane. My experience with rubber powered planes are the little balsa flyers you buy for $4.00. They are fun though.

[Steve Blanchard]

Here are some links to some beautiful models with beautiful flights all on rubber power.

www.youtube.com/watch?v=V8nD1Q14y50

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9SKGJxKfdo

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3PRcICvhjZs

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WgQ8vRNuU8M

Enjoy!

Steve

[WIDDOG]

At the end of last summer, I packed up this unfinished model and put it in a box. Tonight I unpacked it and started to work on it again. It’s the 500 Series Stuka, I heard it is difficult to have flying success with this kit. I have learned quite a lot about this hobby from the 500 series kits. I’m going to try to fly this model when I am finished with it. Also I am trying to be more active on this forum.

[WIDDOG]

This is where i'm at flying wise for 500 series kits. I hope to get better http://youtu.be/tJOMsQhUzqM This Zero has been through the "Ringer" testing different size rubber motors. IMHO four stands of 1/8” rubber worked the best. On my next 500 series kit that will be the motor I will use.