When I do this I cut out the shape from tissue using the sharpest blade I have and with very light pressure. This ensures that the edge of the shape is not rough or raised and sits flat.
I put the shape where I want it, then I flood thinners through the shape so it melts the doped surface underneath and sticks. The surface can go a bit wrinkly but it soon recovers and goes flat again. I tend to use a small soft brush to apply the thinners which also serves the useful purpose of a "shoving stick" to finally position the shape.
If the shape needs to conform to a compound curve then you can wet it first, so you can stretch it a bit.
The letters and leading edge on this Jodel Bebe were done like this and turned out really well, so your camo colours could be done the same....
The obvious advantge of a purely tissue decorated model is of course weight, it is a very light method in comparsion to painting and I always seen to have trouble getting decals to stick on a plain tissue and doped (rather than painted) surfaces.
You can ink jet tissue with paterns etc, but you have to be able to cover the surface with one piece and of course acurately position each piece on the surface. The other think to watch out for is the compatability of the ink with water and the dope that you seal with, otherwise you can end up with a runny mess!