REMEMBER! THESE SOLID BLACK AREAS INDICATE BALSA STRIPS SIZES
KIT 602
PIPER SUPER CUB 95
20" WING SPAN
A "Junior Contest" Semi-scale Model
GUARANTEED TO FLY IF INSTRUCTIONS ARE FOLLOWED
COPYRIGHT 1966 BY PAUL K. GUILLOW, INC.
The frames for model are assembled directly over the full size layouts printed on this side of plan. The plan has been divided into easy-to-read work areas and it is suggested that, starting with area "A," you complete the frames in one area before starting the next frame project.
Although the frames are built directly on the layouts the plan MUST first be laid flat on a workboard and covered with wax paper to prevent frames from sticking to it during assembly. For a workboard, use corrugated cardboard, soft wood, Celotex, etc.—any flat surface into which you can easily stick common pins.
The model frames are built from balsa sheet and strip stock. Parts on the sheet stock are die-cut and lettered to correspond with the letters on the plan (CI, C2, C3, etc.). The strips, which are cut to various short lengths as needed, must first be cut to FULL LENGTH from the sheet of strips as illustrated below.
IMPORTANT PRE-WORK INFORMATION
In addition to the contents of this kit, you will need the following tools and accessories: model airplane cement, clear dope, dope thinner, ¼" wide artist brush, model knife and fine sandpaper all of which can be obtained at your local hobby store. Also required and usually found at home are common pins (50), wax paper and a single edge razor blade.
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES REQUIRED
DETAIL OF AIRPLANE FRAME WORK
NOTE: ALL FRAMES COVERED WITH TISSUE BEFORE ASSEMBLY!
Plan and Instruction Sheet
PATENT APPLIED FOR
SPECIAL NOTE!
DO NOT use plastic model cement for building this model.
JUST FOLLOW THE NUMBERS FOR BUILDING AND YOU'LL AVOID ASSEMBLY ERRORS.
BUILDING THE STABILIZER AND RUDDER FRAMES
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The balsa frame pieces are cemented to each other as they are placed on the layouts
Use common pins to fasten pieces in place-locations shown by black dots.
Large letters indicate die-cut parts (all other pieces are cut from balsa strips).
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Small red numbers indicate order of frame assembly.
The width and thickness of balsa strips found by matching the end with the solid black areas on layouts. Cut strips to length as needed.
Let cement dry HARD before lifting frames from layouts then apply second coat of cement to all joints for added strength.
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The two wing frames are built in much the same way as the stabilizer and rudder frames with the various parts being cemented together and pinned in place in the order shown by the red numbers.
Since both right and left wing frames are quite similar, you can build either one first.
Be sure and let cement dry HARD before removing frames
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from the layouts then trim ends of balsa strips as indicated on plan.
Work carefully, sandpaper wing rib ends as shown in sketch at right.
Finally, apply a second coat of cement to all joints for added strength.
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BUILDING THE FUSELAGE (BODY) FRAME - STEP 1
Following the small red numbers, assemble the two side frames on the layouts just as you assembled the rudder and stabilizer frames. (Drawing No. 1)
(SOME PINS OMITTED FOR CLARITY)
When cement has dried, remove common pins CAREFULLY and then lift the LEFT SIDE frame from its layout.
The RIGHT SIDE frame remains on the layout with all pins removed except two or three thru die-cut parts A1 and A2 as you can see in Drawing No. 2
The next job is to join the two frames together at the tail ends and then install former B5 in place between the frames.
CEMENT TAIL ENDS TOGETHER
First line up the LEFT SIDE frame over the RIGHT SIDE frame and then cement and pin the tail ends together as shown in Drawing No. 2. While the cement is STILL WET, raise the from of the LEFT SIDE frame and cement former B5 in place between the frames as illustrated. (Drawing No. 2)
While the fuselage frame is still drying, pick out and strengthen former B1 with two balsa sticks (Drawing No. 3). The FORMER PATTERNS show the exact location of strips on B1. Cut and cement the strips in place the set former B1 aside the dry.
Next select the two matching formers B3 and cement them together with the formed landing gear wire sandwiched between them as shown in Drawing No. 4. Squeeze the parts tightly and pin together until dry.
After you are sure the cement holding the fuselage frame together is dry, remove all remaining pins and carefully lift from layout. From this point on, the fuselage frame is completed off the plan and the next assembly steps are given on the opposite side of this plan sheet.
BUILDING THE FUSELAGE (BODY) FRAME - STEP 2
Instead of working on a layout, this second step in assembly is performed while you hold the frame in your hands or while it is setting on the workboard. The location of parts to be added to the fuselage frame are shown on the top and side views and Drawing No. 5 below. As before, follow the red numbers for proper work order.
TRIM OFF OVERHANG AFTER CEMENTING IN PLACE
First cement former B1 between nose end of side frames, holding together with your fingers or an elastic band until dry (1).
Next cement the double former B3 with landing gear wire in place (2).
Add the rest or formers—B2, B4, B6 and B7 (3,4,5,6).
In addition to formers, other pieces are needed to strengthen the fuselage frame. These are called "cross members" and are cut from balsa strips. Following the red numbers, cut and cement the cross members in place between the side frames (7,8,9,10,11,12). Actual size of cross members shown above Top view.
Now cement die-cut parts A5, A6 and A7 in place (13,14,15,16,17).
Top and bottom strips, called "stringers," are next added. These are attached to frame longer than needed and then cut to actual length after the cement has dried.
Cement bottom stringers into notch in double former B3 holding in place with a pin. (18). When dry, bend the stringers slightly and cement to formers B5 and B7 and the tail end of frame. Hold or pin in place until dry.
Add top stringers in similar manner. (19)
When dry, trim all stringers to actual length.
Next cut and cement in place the remaining pieces cut from strip stock (20,21,22,23)
Assemble tail wheel L3 and balsa strip and cement to bottom stringer (24,25)
Finally give all joints a second coat of cement for added strength.
At this time the plastic nose cowl should be trimmed to shape and then "dry fitted" over former B1. (Drawing No. 6).
A slight amount of light sanding will be necessary to obtain a perfect fit. CAUTION! Do not sand B1 too much resulting in loose fit. Set cowl aside until after fuselage frame is covered with tissue.
SPECIAL NOTE: The drawings that follow, except Drawing No. 16, are NOT pictures of the model you are building. They only show general way model parts are covered, doped, assembled, etc.
SANDING AND DOPING THE FRAMES
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CLEAR DOPE: A special liquid used by model builders for priming balsa wood and as an adhesive for attaching tissue covering to model frames. Also used as
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a protective coating over tissue covered frames when diluted in half with dope thinner. Clear Dope and Dope Thinner available at your hobby dealer.
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Lightly sandpaper all frames to remove any balsa "fuzz" or cement "bumps." Give outside edges of all frames on coat of clear dope. (Drawing No. 7). When dry, give frames a final light "smooth-up" sanding.
COVERING THE FRAMES WITH TISSUE
Covering model frames with tissue is actually quite easy although often a problem for a beginner. The directions that follow show the five basic steps for covering a model frame and even a "first timer" can enjoy success if these instructions are carefully observed.
1. MARK AND CUT TISSUE OVERSIZE
2. BRUSH CLEAR DOPE ON OUTSIDE EDGES OF FRAME.
NO DOPE APPLIED ON INSIDE PIECES
5. DOPE EDGES - SMOOTH DOWN
FOR OVERLAP EDGES, CUT
TISSUE SO NO TRIM
The five basic steps in covering are as follows:
1. Trace and cut tissue to size. (Drawing No. 8).
2. Apply coat of Clear Dope to frame. (Drawing No. 9).
3. Immediately set tissue on doped frame BEFORE it has a chance to dry and smooth flat with finger tips. (Drawing No. 10).
4. Trim off overhang with razor blade. (Drawing No. 11). Sandpaper can be used if blade no available.
5. Apply coat of Clear Dope to trimmed edges and smooth down any loose tissue with finger tips. (Drawing No. 12). Where a piece of tissue of tissue
overlaps another it is best to cut the overlapping edge so that no trim is needed. (Drawing No. 13).
The Tissue Pattern Key shows how tissue should be marked with soft pencil (solid lines) to get enough pieces to cover all parts. No need to trace actual frame outlines (dotted lines). Cut the square sections apart and dope to frames as needed following red numbers for best work order. Trim off "overhang" when dry.
Refer to Drawings No. 19 and 20 for motor installation.
WATER SPRAYING AND DOPING COVERED PARTS
Before assembling model, spray all surfaces of tissue covered parts with clean water. As water dries, it will shrink tissue smoothly on frames. Use an atomizer (Drawing No. 14) or facial tissue dipped in water. Apply moister lightly and sparingly to avoid breakage of tissue.
When dry, give all surfaces of the tissue covered parts ONE coat of Clear Dope that has first been thinned in half Dope Thinner, DO NOT use full strength as it comes in bottle. (Drawing No. 15).
Finally, cement plastic nose cowl to fuselage — refer to Drawing No. 6.
SPRAYING TISSUE WITH CLEAR WATER
IMPORTANT!
MIXTURE OF HALF DOPE AND HALF DOPE THINNER
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The model is now ready for assembly — see Drawing No. 16 below. Before assembly, be sure to scrape tissue in spots on any area that prevents wood from bonding to wood. (Drawing No. 17). Use point of razor blade or knife.
Cut windshield and window areas from celluloid. (Drawing No. 18). Next trace stiff paper parts on white
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paper and cut to shape. (material not in kit — use any white writing paper you may have at home). Full size celluloid and stiff paper furnished directly below (on plan).
Now, referring to Drawing No. 16, assemble model in order shown by red numbers 10, 11, 12, 13, 18 and 19 are near drawing No. 16.
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"SCORE" WINDOW OUTLINE ON CELLULOID - CUT SHAPE WITH SCISSORS
SCRAPE TISSUE AWAY IN SPOTS
INSTALLING RUBBER POWER UNIT
DECORATING MODEL - BALANCING MODEL
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Assemble propeller unit and tie ends of rubber thread in kit to form a motor band. (Drawing No. 19).
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Install one end of motor band on fuselage (Drawing No. 20) then fasten other end to wire propeller shaft.
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HINTS ABOUT RUBBER MOTOR
When winding propeller, DO NOT exceed 230 turns. Over winding will cause rubber motor to break and damage model.
For long flights, more propeller turns are possible if you lubricate the rubber motor BEFORE it is installed in model. To do this, obtain a mixture of one part liquid green soap and two parts glycerin from your druggist. Place a few drops of this mixture in your hands and rub it into the rubber motor. Stretch rubber a few times and wipe off excess lubricant. Install motor in model and wind slowly - the will force "lube" into rubber.
In case rubber motor breaks, replace it with T-56 rubber thread available at your local hobby shop. Length needed - 22 inches.
Black lines representing control surface separations can be made from border lines of this plan. (Drawing No. 21). Refer to small three view drawings of aircraft on back of box for location of control lines and any decorations required.
TAIL HEAVY - ADD WEIGHT TO NOSE OF MODEL
MODEL IN BALANCE AFTER WEIGHT IS ADDED
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Before flight testing, your model MUST be balanced
as shown in Drawing No. 22 (Refer to Wing Layouts on opposite side of plan for
POINTS OF BALANCE). The model will require the addition of a small amount of
weight at nose to balance properly. For weight, use clay, window putty or any
pliable material that you
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can press into the lower part of the nose cowl opening.
Your model is now ready for flight testing. Handy "IN-the-Field" Flight Instructions are furnished on the back panel of the kit box. They should be cut out and saved until you are ready to fly your
model.
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Building and flying your own balsa model airplane can be one of the most interesting and enjoyable hobbies providing you spend the time necessary to do a good job. This Guillow model is especially designed for ease of assembly and good flight performance and you can enjoy both IF you follow the special Build-by-Number instructions that have been developed by Guillow
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model engineers as an aid to a new model builder. Experienced model builders will find this "Junior Contest" model simple to build and a joy to fly. You too can have the same success if you work SLOWLY and CAREFULLY making sure that each separate job is complete before attempting the following step.
Good luck and good flying!
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PERSPECTIVE OF LEFT WING FRAME
(SOME PIMS OMITTED FOR CLARITY)
LEFT WING PLAN —REDUCED SIZE
ACTUAL SIZE OF CROSS MEMBERS
THE FUSELAGE (OR BODY) FRAME IS BUILT PARTLY ON THIS PLAN AND THEN COMPLETED AFTER REMOVAL FROM LAYOUTS. STEP 1 OF BUILDING THE FUSELAGE COVERS THE ASSEMBLY OF THE RIGHT AND LEFT SIDE
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FRAMES AND THE INSTALLATION OF CENTER FORMER B5. THE FINAL ASSEMBLY OF THE FUSELAGE FRAME IS GIVEN IN STEP 2 ON THE OPPOSITE SIDE OF THIS PLAN.
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