1.   Cut to size and pin the 1/8” sq. spar, 1/8” x 3/16” leading edge and the trailing edge (W1) in their respected places over plan. 2.   Cement strut stop (W2) in its respected place 3.   Cement wing ribs (W3-W5) into their positions between leading edge and trailing edge, fitting over the spar. 4.   Using WA to retain angle of wing tip, cement W6 into position.  Note: you should sand slight angle to edge of W6 so it fits up against wing rib well.

5.   Cement the top 1/16” spars into position. Note: long straight stringers can go from W3 across wing to W4.  Then use small pieces of 1/16” spar to go from W4 out to wing tip.  Angle must be cut in spars to meet wing tip. 6.   Follow the same procedure in assembling the opposite wing half. 7.   When dry, remove wing frames from drawing plan. Using sandpaper sand the leading edges to shape and gently round all other edges.

1.   Pin to the plan and cement respectively to each other, all center keel parts (A1-A5). 2.   Cement the side keel parts A6 & A7 to one another over the plan. When dry, lightly sand the area where they were glued on both sides to ensure that it fits properly in the former slots. 3.   Cement left side formers F1 through F11 on the center keel, excluding F6. 4.   Cement side keel (A6 & A7) into the deep notches in the formers, making sure that the formers remain at a right angle to center keel. 5.   After the center keel is dry, cement F6 into place, making sure it is parallel to its neighbors. 6.   Using the cabin template (A8) on the plan, cement a 1/16” square support

strip to the inside of the canopy along the dotted line to support the A8 piece. Note: The A8 pieces should mirror one another. 7.   Cement A8 into place along pieces F4 through F8. 8.   When dry remove frame from plan and cement the right side formers to the center keel making sure they are straight across from their counterpart. Cement the other side keel (A6-A7) and the A8 cabin piece into place. 9.   Cement 1/16” sq. stringers into their respective notches. Note: to obtain uniform tension on the fuselage, cement the strings alternately from left to right sides and top to bottom. Cement L1 through L3 into place. 10.   Lightly sand fuselage to remove balsa fuzz & excess cement.

1.   Will this model be for static display of for flying?  If you are building a flying model be sure to use enlarged FLYING STABILIZER “SF” parts and the layout on the back side of the building plan, which is 115% over scaled for more stable flying.

2.   Do you want fixed or movable tail surfaces? If you choose to build movable surfaces you will need to make hinges from scrap material and be sure not to glue parts together along the hinge lines (see further notes below).

1.   Pin to plan and cement respectively to each other, all rudder parts ®.  Do not cement R3 and R4 together if building movable rudder. 2.   Cut the 1/16” x 3/32” spars to size and cement into position.  Do not cement the two spars along hinge line together if building movable rudder. 3.   The stabilizer is built in similar manner as above, using stabilizer (S) parts.  The tip plates are added after the stabilizer is done and covered. 4.   If building fixed tail surfaces your construction is done, you can sand the pieces to remove all fuzz, bumps and excess glue.  If building movables surfaces continue below (steps 5-10).   5. On the rudder cut R6 along the hinge line, on stabilizer cut S3 along hinge line.

6.   Sand the pieces to remove all fuzz, bumps and excess glue.  Also sand along the hinge lines making smooth slightly curved edges on both pieces.   7.   Carefully, make narrow hinge slots with your hobby knife as shown.   8.   Cut hinges to the size shown on the plan. Hinges can be made from scrap plastic for a static model or an aluminum soda can (not supplied in kit) for a free flight model. 9.   Slide the hinges into their slots 10.Make sure that both pieces align with one another, leaving a narrow gap in between them to allow surfaces to bend.  Cement the hinges in place.

Before starting to tissue, make sure your parts have dried well and you have sanded your pieces smooth.  Our instructions below use a mixture of white glue and water to adhere the tissue covering to the framework, a glue stick or modelers dope may be used instead if it’s in your workshop.   1.   Get a small paintbrush out and mix up a 50% water - 50% white glue mixture in a small cup.  Stir it well. 2.   Cut a slightly oversized section of tissue apart with some scissors and have ready to glue to frames using the glue mixture. 3.   Brush glue mixture onto the perimeter edges of the frame.   4.   Immediately set tissue on glued frame BEFORE it has a time to dry and smooth flat as possible with finger tips.  When smooth, paint another coat of glue mixture through the tissue (around the perimeter) so you get a good strong bond. 5.   When dry, trim off overhanging tissue with modelers knife.  Sandpaper can be used if knife is not available.  Apply coat of glue mixture to trimmed edges and smooth down any loose tissue with finger tips.

FUSELAGE:  See diagram on plan for suggested placement. First cover any flat surfaces such as the sides and bottom of frame. Cover curved areas of fuselage in separate sections - vertically between formers. Dry fit tissue over curved sections to see how much of area can be covered with one piece of tissue without wrinkling. Cut tissue slightly larger than area to be covered, then trim off excess after attaching to framework. WINGS:  Cover bottom of wing with single piece of tissue. Cover top of wing between root rib and tip rib with one piece of tissue. Covering wing tips with separate piece of tissue may help you do a neat job. TAIL SURFACES:  Cover the top and bottom of both the rudder and stabilizer with single pieces of tissue. FINISHING THE COVERED PARTS:  After covering is completed and all excess tissue is trimmed off, mist the tissue with water and let dry.  This will cause your tissue to shrink a bit and tighten, removing most  wrinkles and imperfections, leaving you with a nice smooth surface. For best flying performance, the model should be kept light and it is suggested that only one coat of clear dope be applied to the surfaces. (If model is built for display only, it can be given several coats of clear dope then finished up with colored dope or paint.)

1.   Pin F0 over plan and cement L4 & L5 “keys” into place making sure they are at a right angle to F0. 2.   Cut out the plastic parts, putting the 4 exhaust stack halves and spinner to the side (used in step 15). Using the L4 and L5 “keys” for placement cement the cowl onto the front of F0 (see diagram on plan). When dry insert into the slots of the F1 formers.     3.   Bend the main landing gear and main landing gear brace wires to match the drawings on plan. 4.   Cement the front wire into place in the small notch of A5 in front of the F4 former. Make sure it is straight on the model. 5.   When dry, insert the long side of the main brace wire into the notch on A8 and cement the other end to the intersection of A5 and F5. 6.   Wrap black thread around wire where they meet at the axle, cement for strength. With sandpaper round the edges of pieces L7-L10. Cement into place along wires as seen in placement sketch & plan photos. 7.   Cement the 1” wheel halves to one another. Slip wheels on axles and either bend up ends of axles with needle nose pliers or put a bead of cement on the end of each axle to hold wheels on. 8.   Bend wire to match rear landing gear drawing on plane. When bending make sure you bend one half then insert the wheel before bending the other half. If you do not insert the wheel at this “mid-bending” point it will not fit onto the wire landing gear. 9.   Cut the rear wheel strut dowel to size and cement wire gear onto it as shown in drawing. Wrap it with black thread and cement into place at the back of fuselage. 10.   Over plan, cut window templates out of clear acetate. Carefully cement windshield and other windows to fuselage. Pin in place until cement dries, if needed.

11.   With a sharp razor, remove tissue from around notches on bottom wing W2 that receive the wing struts. 12.   Cut 1/8” dowels to length as shown on plan. Take the two 2-7/8” dowels and insert through the holes in the top of the cabin. Insert the wings onto the dowels and apply a small amount of cement. 13.   One at a time cement wing strut in notches at bottom of the wing & to fuselage as shown. Note, trim to dashed line on plan if you do not intend to fly it.  Then better cement the wings into place. 14.   Cement stabilizer to fuselage. Line up carefully, making sure it is parallel to wings. Cement rudder to fuselage, being sure its perpendicular to stabilizer. 15.   Assemble the propeller, prop hook and nose bearing as shown on plan. Note, if you are building a flying model use the 7” propeller and if you are building a static model use either the 4” propeller or carve your own using the drawing shown on the plan. 16.   Cement the 4 exhaust stacks to each other, making 2 complete exhaust stacks. Cement into place on the cowl as seen in the 3 view drawing. Trim slits into the spinner to fit around the propeller & cement in place. 17.   Place the assembled propeller into cowl, as shown on plan. Install rubber motor as follows: Insert one end in fuselage and fasten in place around the rear motor mount (the 1½” long 1/8” dowel) which is inserted through the "L1" parts. Attach the other end of rubber loops over prop hook and slip propeller unit into hole in plastic nose cowl. 18.   At this time, balance the model at the point shown on plan by placing modeling clay to the inside and bottom of fuselage directly behind former F1 or inside nose cowl. Press the clay firmly in place so it will not dislodge.

1.   Full scale detail of a non-flying scale propeller is shown on plan. No material is included in kit for this part but it can be made from other balsa or you can re-work a small gas motor propeller accessible at your hobby shop. Use this prop only for exhibition model.

2.    Finally, add decals (following the instructions on the back of decal) & paint per color scheme on plan. 3.   Refer to the painting on the box top and color scheme on plan to add any other desired extra details to your model.

1.   Check wings for possible warps. If warped, correct by holding the warped section over steam from a pot of boiling water and twisting gently in the opposite direction until wing is straightened. Be careful and not to get burnt! 2.   Test glide model over grassy area by gently thrusting model forward from shoulder height. Adjust model for level flight by gently bending stabilizer either up or down to compensate for a dive or climbing stall. ("up" stabilizer for dive - "down" stabilizer for stall). If model veers right

or left, adjust for straight glide by carefully bending rudder in opposite direction of curved flight. If  your model has moveable parts bend the fin slightly to trim the model flight.   3.   Wind propeller 100 turns (clockwise when facing nose of model) and gently thrust into prevailing wind. If model climbs too rapidly or goes into a stall, correct flight by bending rudder slightly to the right to give a climbing right turn. Longer flights can be made after initial tests by winding propeller motor up to 200 turns.