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Before starting construction of your model, study the plan and construction procedure carefully so that you will have a complete understanding of the step-by-step method of building this airplane. Guillow engineering has provided you with the most up-to-date method for building a real scale flying model but only careful attention to detail will insure the success of your efforts.
The frame photographs shown on this instruction sheet are actual pictures of the model you are about to build. The line drawings under each photo show the method of frame construction but are not actual illustrations of the model you
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making. In other words, refer to the line drawings for construction procedure — refer to the photos for construction details of your model.
IMPORTANT HINT. Before removing parts from die-cut balsa sheets, lay each one PRINTED SIDE down on a flat surface and sand the exposed side with fine sandpaper wrapped around a sanding block. This will help free any parts not completely cut through and also lighten the overall weight of the model—an important factor for rubber powered flying models. Sand carefully—do not crumple die-cut sheet by working too fast or with too much pressure.
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1. Pin top and bottom keel parts "A" over fuselage layout.
2. Cement one each of formers "B" into position on keel — be sure formers are at right angles to keel.
3. Cement side keel "A" into deep notches of formers "B".
4. When dry, remove frame from plan. Cement other halves of formers "B" to center keel; then add remaining side keel.
5. Cement 1/16" sq. stringers into their respective notches. NOTE: To obtain uniform tension on fuselage, cement stringers alternately to left and right sides and top
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and
bottom.
6. Cement one each of parts "L" into place between stringers and formers on left and right sides of fuselage. Also add headrest former if shown on plan and fair into fuselage with stringers.
7. Lightly sandpaper completed fuselage frame to remove balsa fuzz and excess cement.
8. Trace or cut out stiff paper cockpit pattern on plan and cement to formers and stringers in cockpit area.
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1. Pin to plan, and cement respectively to each other, all "E" parts of top wing.
2. Cement leading edge and spars in position
3. Cement wing ribs "F" into position between leading and trailing edges — also cement to spars
4. Follow the same procedure in assembling the bottom wing — pin and
cement parts "G" in place then add the
wing ribs. |
5. When dry remove wing frames from plan. Sandpaper the leading edge to shape and gently round all other edges.
6. The wings of models with scale dihedral should be cracked at ribs shown on front view of wing plan. Raise wing tips to height shown and then cement the cracked joints — hold in position until dry. Refer to special note on plan for increased dihedral as an aid to better lateral stability in flying.
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When attaching tissue covering to frames, it is best to use full strength clear dope as an adhesive instead of model cement, paper paste, etc. Only apply dope to OUTSIDE edges of areas being covered—do not apply dope to frame work within area covered by section of tissue.
FUSELAGE: First cover any flat surfaces such as sides and bottom of frame. Cover curved areas of fuselage in separate sections — vertically between formers. Dry fit tissue over curved sections to see how much of an area can be covered with one piece of tissue without wrinkling. Cut tissue slightly larger than area to be covered then trim off excess after attaching to frame.
WINGS: Cover bottom of wings with single pieces of tissue. Cover top
of wings between center section and tip ribs with
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one
piece of tissue. Cover center sections and tips with separate pieces of tissue.
TAIL SURFACES: Cover both sides of rudder and top and bottom of stabilizer with single pieces of tissue.
DOPING THE COVERED PARTS: After covering is completed and all excess tissue is trimmed off, spray tissue with water from an atomizer and let dry until covering becomes smooth and taut. For best flying performance, the model should be kept light and it is suggested that only one coat of clear dope be applied to the surfaces. (If model is to be used for display only, it can be given several coats of clear dope then finished up with colored dope.) Lightly sandpaper remaining balsa parts and apply one coat of dope to all surfaces.
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1. Pin to plan, and cement respectively to each other, all rudder parts "C". Cut 1/16" sq. members to size and cement in position.
2. Build stabilizer frame in a similar manner using parts "D" and 1/16" sq. members.
3. Remove frames from plan and sandpaper lightly,
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rounding all edges.
4. Pin landing gear parts "K" to strut layout after cementing pieces together.
5. For models with N or V cabane struts, assemble parts "J" over layout. For models with N or V wing struts, assemble parts "K" over layout.
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1. Use black thread to simulate rigging wires. Refer to small three view plan for location of all wires.
2. Full scale details of guns, motors, non-flying scale prop, etc., are furnished on plan. No material is furnished in the kit for these parts but they can be made from pieces of scrap balsa
or similar material.
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Only add these parts if an exhibition model is desired — their extra weight will cut down the flight endurance of a flying model.
3. Finally add the insignia as per instructions on reverse side of decal.
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1. Check wings for possible warps. If warped, correct by holding the warped section over steam from a boiling kettle and twisting gently in the opposite direction until wing is straightened — be careful and don't get scalded!
2. Test glide model over grassy area by gently thrusting model forward from shoulder height. Adjust model for level flight by gently bending stabilizer either up or down to compensate for a dive or climbing stall, ("up" stabilizer for dive — "down"
stabilizer for stall).
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If model veers right or left, adjust for straight glide by bending rudder in opposite direction of curved flight.
3. Wind propeller 100 turns (clockwise when facing nose of model) and gently thrust into prevailing wind. If model climbs too rapidly or goes into a stall, correct flight by bending rudder slightly to the right to give a climbing right turn. Longer flights can be made after initial tests by winding propeller motor up to 200 turns
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1. With a sharp razor, remove tissue from around notches in wing ribs that receive the wing and cabane struts. Also remove tissue from notches in parts "L" of fuselage.
2. Cement bottom wing to the fuselage. NOTE: Some models have short stringers between the formers at the bottom wing center section. Insert these stringers at this time; cover section with tissue and dope.
3. Cement stabilizer and rudder to fuselage. Align carefully before cement dries hard.
4. Cement cabane struts into prepared notches in fuselage.
5. Cement wing struts in notches in bottom wing.
6. Cement top wing to all struts — line up carefully before cement dries hard.
7. Cement landing gear into notches in fuselage and bottom of wing.
8. Cement fixed sub-wing panel between bottom of landing gear struts. Cement tail skid "K" in place.
9. Cut wheel axle to length then force through right and left
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landing gear struts beneath the sub-wing — cement solidly in place.
10. Slip wheels on axles and bend up ends with a pair of needle nose pliers.
11. Cut celluloid windbreaker to shape and cement in position in front of cockpit. (Pattern furnished on plan).
12. At this time, balance model at point shown on plan by placing softened clay inside the front and bottom of fuselage behind the front former. Press firmly in place so that it will not become dislodged during flights.
13. Trim plastic nose cowl to shape and slip over nose of fuselage — bead all around edges with cement.
14. Assemble propeller, prop hook, head and nose bearing as shown on plan. Install rubber motor as follows: insert one end in fuselage and fasten in place by sliding rear motor mount (cut from excess axle wire) through loop and "L" parts. Attach other end of rubber loop over prop hook and slip propeller unit into hole in plastic nose cowl.
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