1401 Instructions

KIT 1401

McDonnell-Douglas F-15 Eagle

Wing Span: 12¾" Length: 18 5/8" Scale: 1/40(approx.)

BUILDING INSTRUCTIONS

Also shown is the use of common pins to wedge stringers in place if former notches are too wide. This should be done carefully to avoid splitting formers.

PHOTO 8 shows stringer installation between formers F2 and F6. Next glue small former F5A to the top of stringers running between formers F5 and F6. Finally, install the short stringers that extend from F5A to F6.

PHOTOS 9 and 10 show the attachment of the dummy air duct structures on each side of the fuselage frame. Parts F14 and F15, the inside duct walls, are first glued against the sides of the fuselage frame. Next, the outside duct walls F16 are glued to formers F5 and F6. (PHOTO 9).

With the F16 parts in place, glue the air duct covers F17 to the top of the air duct walls (F14, F15 and F16). Next score parts F12 at former F6 then bend the forward portions inward until they touch the F-16 air duct walls -

glue in position.

When dry, glue the wedge shape pieces F18 in place - top and bottom. PHOTO 10. It may be necessary to trim the F18 parts slightly to fit the triangular openings.

PHOTO 11 is a bottom view of fuselage frame showing the completed air duct assembly including the short 1/16" sq. strips glued between F14 and F16. (White arrowhead). The black arrowhead indicates the short 1/16" sq. pieces that fit between the side stringers and touch parts F15. These are needed on both sides of fuselage as contact points when tissue covering is added.

PHOTO 12 shows a bottom view of completed fuselage frame with the main and nose landing gear wires glued in position -see Plan C, Blocks 7 and 8. Photo 13 - completed fuselage frame.

Pin Plan C to a workboard and cover with a sheet of protective film such as Saran Wrap. Start wing assemblies by pinning W1's (tips) to layouts. Next glue and pin W2's against W1's then add W3's gluing and pinning them against the W1's.

Cut the bottom spars from a piece of 1/16" sq. strip stock. Pin over layout with ends glued to W1's. PHOTO 1.

Beginning with the W4's (wing ribs), glue all ribs to the W2's, bottom

spars and against the W3's. Be sure to line them up with the printed lines making certain that they do not lean to one side or the other. Cut the top spars then glue them in the rib notches and to the top of W1s. PHOTO 2. Note the use of pins to hold parts in place during assembly.

Glue sub-ribs W8, W9, W10 and W11 to the W2's and top spars. PHOTO 3. Let all glue joints dry hard before moving on to the next step.

Carefully pull out pins then remove wing frames from layouts. Cut the

1/16"sq. alignment strips to exact length and glue them in notches in bottom of ribs. Let glue dry hard.

When dry, trim off any excess 1/16" sq. spar lengths. PHOTO 4.

Stabilizer and rudder frames are assembled over their respective layouts much like the wing frames. The die-cut parts are glued and pinned to each other in numerical order then the 1/16" sq. cross braces are cut and added.

PHOTOS 5 and 6. (The two rudder frames required are assembled separately.) Let glue dry hard before removing frames from layouts.

Rudders only - cut and glue two pieces of 1/16" strip stock over the bottom cross braces (both sides) and parts R2, R3 and R4. When dry, carve or sand to the streamlined and tapered shapes shown by drawings.

Lightly sandpaper all frames smooth for tissue covering later on.

Before starting, be SURE the two pieces of 1/16" sq. strip stock required have been cut and glued to the front side of former F5. Also, that the 1/16" sq. internal notches have been cut in formers F5 and F6. (See Block 3 on Plan B.) PHOTO 1 shows all the die-cut fuselage parts laid out ready for use.

To start, test fit all formers (F3 thru F9) by slipping them into their respective slots in center keel F1. PHOTO 2. If a former fails to slip easily into its keel slot, do NOT force into position. Instead, using a razor blade or knife, slightly widen any slot that binds until a smooth fit results.

After checking alignment carefully, glue all parts together. Set frame aside until all glue joints dry hard.

Select the two die-cut F12 pieces then fit and glue them to formers F6, F7, F8 and F9. PHOTO 5. When dry, lightly score the F12's at former F9 with the point of a razor blade then bend the rear portions back until they

rest against former F11 - glue in place. When dry, add parts F13.

The addition of the 1/16" sq. stringers is the next job. The stringers are glued in the former notches except for the few that butt against formers - see Former Patterns in Block 3. Study the plans to see where stringers start, stop and in some cases butt together in the center of a former notch

Beginning with F2 and continuing thru F9, glue formers to the center keel using the die-cut Alignment Gauge to align the formers at exact right angles (90°) to the keel before the glue hardens. PHOTO 3. This alignment check is very important to insure that the fuselage frame finishes up straight and true.

When the glue holding F9 to the center keel has dried hard, slide the two die-cut alignment sticks F10 into the slots in F9. Next slip former F11 over the free ends of the alignment sticks and flush against the end of the center keel. PHOTO 4.

Starting with the rear section of the fuselage frame, cut and attach the stringers that run between formers F4 and F11 . PHOTO 6.

It is best to attach stringers in pairs - one on one side of the center keel then the corresponding one on the opposite side. This will prevent

tension that might warp the frame if all stringers on one side of the center keel were to be glued In place at one time.

PHOTO 7 shows how adhesive is applied when gluing stringers to the formers - a small drop in each corner is sufficient.

Optional: Both the main and nose gears (blocks 6 and 7) can be omitted if model is to resemble an in-flight fighter plane.

The right and left main landing gears are made from wire provided in kit. The steps in making such wire forms are described under the heading "Wire Landing Gear" in the General Information Sheet.

Once made, glue them to stringers and former F7 as shown by detail sketch making sure they are perfectly aligned before the glue sets. Wheels and doors L1 are attached later.

Although a different shape, the nose gear is made from wire in the kit in much the same way as the main gear.

Once formed, the wire is glued into the fuselage frame snug against the center keel, former F5 and the 1/16" sq. guidance strips glued to F5. These strips provide an exact alignment for the nose gear installation. The nose wheel, door L2 and support wires are added later.

Important Note! Although many of the photos in the following Blocks show assembled non-covered frames, all frames that are to be tissue covered should be covered BEFORE they are assembled.

Optional: If you prefer to assemble a non-tissue covered model such as the illustration on the box cover, disregard these instructions.

If you have never covered a balsa model with tissue before, it is important that you read the instructions in the General Information Sheet under the heading "Tissue For Covering Model Frames". In addition to hints on tissue covering, valuable information is supplied on

the use of white glue diluted with water as a wood priming agent and as an adhesive for gluing tissue to wood.

The photos above show top and bottom views of the tissue covered fuselage as well as the tissue covered wings and tail surfaces. The wings and tail surfaces are comparatively easy to cover having mostly flat surfaces. The fuselage, consisting of both flat and curved surfaces, is more of a challenge since it requires the application of smaller segments of tissue to avoid unsightly wrinkles. A scheme for covering the fuselage is provided in the General Information Sheet.

PHOTOS 1, 2 and 3 show how part P1 is cut to its finished shape. First, mark the INSIDE edges with a thin black felt tip pen. Next, using a knife or razor blade, cut one side of the part from bottom to top (arrowhead). Score again on the same line then flex the excess material up and down until it breaks free. Sand any rough edges smooth.

PHOTO 4 shows all of the white plastic parts cut to shape. They should be color painted before attachment to model - see color scheme on Plan A.

Photos 5 and 6 show the attachment of part P1, nose cone P2 and tailpipes P3 to fuselage. See Block 13 on Plan E.

PILOT SEAT: Cut out and assemble the "M" parts.

WHEELS: Use either the three non-scale wood wheels provided in kit or assemble a set of scale plastic wheels P5 and P6 as per Information Sheet.

MISSILES: Make from 1/8" and 3/16" dowel stock in kit. Cut out fins and glue them to dowels aligning them at right angles to each other.

Note that the photos in Blocks 11 and 12 show the model without tissue covering. Whether "covered" or not, the main elements of the model are glued together in the same way.

Photo 1 shows the left wing being glued to fuselage part F12 with the short 1/16" sq. strip extensions ready to fit into the 1/16" sq. alignment holes. Check alignment before glue dries. Attach

right wing in a similar manner.

Photo 2 shows the left stabilizer being attached after which the right stabilizer is added. Sight alignment from front and back before glue sets up.

Photo 3 shows the rudder attachments. See side, top and rear views on Plan D for exact positioning of these two units.

Cut out the light cardstock parts J1, J2 and J3. Fold cockpit deck J1 on dotted lines then glue it to the top of fuselage between formers F3 and F5A. When dry, glue the plastic instrument deck P4 and pilot seat to J1.

Next fold the two air duct interiors J2 as instructed then glue them inside the air ducts on each side of fuselage. PHOTO 1. Paint the rest of the INSIDE surfaces of F14, F15 and F16 black to complete an illusion of depth. Glue circles J3 inside tailpipes P3.

Cut and trim canopy P7 to shape. PHOTO 2. Fit to fuselage trimming some edges if needed for a snug fit.

Finally, glue canopy P7 in place on fuselage. PHOTO 3- Add landing gear doors L1 and L2 as well as the short support wires shown in Blocks 6 and 7. Attach the missiles and decal insignia to complete model. Add auxiliary fuel tank. Add decals If model is tissue covered.