kit #305 DeHavilland Beaver...Floats?

[heywooood]

yeah - I'm going to add an item to my check lists to check my checklist lol..







water rudders in place with the steering connections made. I still need to attach the retraction wires. Rudders are depicted in the 'raised' position.

[heywooood]

Its complete..nav lights, aileron and flap actuators, radio antenae,
Etc..

[backyardbalsapilot]

I dig the fleet of aircraft. You should do either a piper cub or taylorcraft, or maybe on of the 400 series.

[heywooood]

Three builds in a little over 5 months..but I think I'll be taking a break from it for a while...life intervenes.
The Cherokee was my first attempt at the infill method and it was a very interesting new modeling challenge for me. So much so that I immediately selected the Cessna 170
as that was an aircraft that I have always appreciated for its versatility, dependability and overall usefulness in the real world. It is a simple and beautiful design.
The DeHavilland Canada Beaver on floats represented an even more challenging model with all the alignments required...and I wanted to scratch build a PW wasp radial engine, been wanting to do that for a while.
All of these kits were so well engineered and outfitted by Guillow that it was easy to make the decision to keep going on the 300 series. AS I said earlier, the only squawk I have among all three kits is the lack
of a formed clear windscreen for the Cherokee as that compound curve is impossible to do with one piece of acetate.
The DHC-2 was, like the 170, without faults or issues of any kind. Clear instructions, quality materials, etc..
When I come back to it, whenever that is - it will probably be about another civilian prop job from the 300 series.
The only Warbird that interests me among the 400's is the P40 but it is an -N- and I prefer the P40B or C version - I would have to modify that kit.
This has been fun making these threads and posting the progress shots for three small builds. I had never done that before. You all have been very gracious and positive, not to mention helpful.
ThankYou.
If anyone has a question about anything at all related to these models or the tools, materials or methods I used but maybe didn't show or describe well enough please ask in these threads and I will reply.
Most of what we do comes from tricks and tips we pick up over time..from articles and forums just like this one - Thanks to Guillow for hosting this board and keeping it well squared away.
I also want to give special thanks to David Duckett for both the inspiration to try this building method and for the prop and spinner that he made and sent to me for the DHC-2 - Thanks again,Dave

[Coloradoken]

I'm nearing the point for trying for a good finish with the infill. You say to sand then put on the aerocoat and then final

DH2 cropped.jpeg

400 grit sand. What grit do you use as a final prior to the 70-4? Just one coat? Looks like you use a pinball as a work surface.

[heywooood]

the pinball machine is CRITICAL to achieving a good finish...

yes - once all of the infill balsa pieces are in place - fill with the wood filler and really mud the hell out of it because you want to make SURE you are filling in any gaps as well as any voids (places where the surface might be
uneven) and let it dry for at least 4 or 5 hours...it must be bone dry.
Then comes the sanding - on a large area sanding block (typical 3 1/2" wide x 8" or so long) load 120 Grit..and sand the item (wing, fuselage whatever) to its best shape. meaning if it is a wing it now has a proper leading edge, trailing edge, and wingtip shape.
Next comes the surface sanding. Switch to a smaller block..say 3-4" long x 2-1/2" wide sanding block - stay with the 120 Grit and sand the surfaces of the item (wing top and bottom -or- fuselage sides,top and bottom surfaces)
and really sand down until you can see the tops of the formers and stringers pretty consistently. Now you want to sand again with 220 Grit using just the small block.
Once you have a nice consistent surface with no deep scratches remaining from the coarser 120G sanding..lay on the first coat of sanding sealer. Let that dry 100%
Now sand again with the 220 on the small block (I always use fresh sandpaper on each round of sanding for best results and to prevent a 'situation')
After you are satisfied with the finish (should be very smooth and have no gaps or other surface problems) put on another coat of the clear sanding sealer, let dry and sand with 220 Grit again.
Then finish sand with a 320 or 400 Grit on the small block.
Put on a base coat of paint or primer and let it dry 100% - Now you can see if your sanding technique was good...I usually have to sand some more with the 220G to get it just right. Then finish sand again with the fine grit
320 or 400G
Remember to wipe off after sanding and before painting - you don't want to trap a bunch of dust under the paint because that defeats the porpoise
IMPORTANT NOTE: if you do not have a pinball machine to use as a backdrop for your finished work send me $5.00 Canadian and I will tell you what you can use instead..

[heywooood]

the filler I use is on page 2 of this thread..holding up the fuselage after I painted the red accent stripe on it..
Elmers Wood Filler (interior / exterior) - good stuff

[Coloradoken]

Thanks. The advice is appreciated.

[heywooood]

Good luck with your DH, looks like you are making good progress.

[Coloradoken]

Got the sanding and sealer done. Looks OK. Time to put on the first coat of white. Do you like acrylic or enamel? Thinned? Brush or spray? I want it to look as good as yours.

[heywooood]

The paint I used for the base white is called Touch n Tone (bright white)
The red color is by the same mfg (cherry red)
Then I use an acrylic gloss clear after I apply the decals and the panel and control surface lines. (I use strips of trim film in a silver color for those)
I have also used testors and Tamiya spray paints on these models..
All are rattle can spray paints.
You can use acrylic or enamels..once they are dry the acrylic clear can go on over everything with no worries.
Just remember to do the clear coat last - and BEFORE you attach the windscreen and cabin windows.

[davidchoate]

Nice details. I like the Radial Engine and Prop work. I used to infill a lot, but have been using sheeting more and more. 1/32" balsa sheeting. It eliminates a lot of the filling sanding. I just had to get the hang of compensating for the 1/32" difference. I do mostly Planes to Fly. Or Try to Fly. Or Fly briefly then Crash.

[heywooood]

The engine turned out Ok - I have built a few radials before but not in this scale...Thank you.
I cannot take credit for the propeller - that was sent to me complete and quite unexpectedly by Dave Duckett - it IS perfect and looks GREAT on the DHc-2

I used to use the 1/32" and sheet over the structures - then sand about half the material away. It works well enough on biplane fuselages that are partially clad around the engine and cockpit but cloth covered along
the sides, and tail area. But modifying the rib and stringer assembly by either cutting the ribs and frames down before stringing or building the structures, then sanding to minimums before applying a balsa skin seems like more work and risk than just doing the infill method. Less risk of altering or deforming the essential shape of the aircraft.

[heywooood]

@ColoradoKen
I'm just wondering how your DHc-2 is coming along..

[Coloradoken]

Lil Beav on the lake.jpeg

Finally finished the Beaver. First attempt at total infilling. Came in at a whopping 180 grams! Really like the look compared to paper. Took twice as long to complete. Lots of sanding.