Building another Messerschmitt

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Building another Messerschmitt

Postby scigs30 » Sun Dec 06, 2009 6:08 pm

My last Messerschmitt was just a little too heavy to get a decent flight, so I started on another. I will everything in the kit except the wood. I will build according the plans with no modifications. I will fly with landing gear up but display with gear down.........I am looking at the pictures of my planes flying and I think they look a little strange flying with the gear down. What do the rest of you think about the landing gear up or down for looks only? So far total weight is 18.5 grams.

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Landing Gear ???

Postby Bob Heywood » Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:44 pm

My vote: Use plug-in gear for display. Fly without the gear.
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Postby scigs30 » Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:46 pm

I started covering today, using the kit tissue and covering wet. I have had a few emails asking how to cover a model wet with domestic tissue. So I took some pictures while I was covering this bird. First I must say it takes practice and time since domestic tissue is fragile when wet. The tissue in the kit appears to be the same tissue I wrap my presents with, so it is nothing special. Esaki tissue is much easier to work with wet, domestic does work. I would not suggest the first time you try it on a new model. You can buy some cheap Guillows kits off Ebay and practice on those. Covering dry in sections will always produce a wrinkle free finish, but covering wet eliminates seams. I first start off by giving the balsa parts a good sanding with 320 grit, and then 600 wet/paper for a smooth finish. I also scalp the formers for a smoother fuselage. I do not seal the balsa before covering, I just start covering. I use a mixture of 50/50 Elmers Glue all and water. I use soft brushes to brush the Elmers on the frames. I only apply glue the outer edges. Make sure to keep your fingers moist with water at all time when adjusting the tissue around corners or you will tear the tissue with dry sticky fingers. Also keep a moist towel next to you so you can keep your fingers clean of glue. Also use scalpel blades to cut the tissue so you don't rip it.
I cover the wing, stab and rudder dry, if you cover with wet tissue, you will end up with a propeller.
1. Cover with one piece of tissue. Apply 1/8 line of glue mixture to outer edge of wing only.
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2. Smooth out the covering, but don't pull and tug too much or paper will rip. Allow to dry before trimming excess.
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After trimming tissue, apply glue around edges to seal balsa and tissue.
Then after glue dries, sand smooth.
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Cover top of wing with 3 pieces of tissue. First tack tissue to root rib, pull tight and tack to wing tip rib, then tack to middle of leading edge and trailing edge. You can see the wet spots in the picture where I tack it. Then let it dry.
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Postby scigs30 » Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:52 pm

After glue has dried, then lift up the portions of tissue that are not glued down and glue the tissue down pull tight. This will produce a wrinkle free wing.
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I covered the tip wet, but dry would be much easier. If you develop wrinkles in the tip, just cut tissue away and cover with separate piece of tissue.
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Wing is smooth before shrinking.
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Trim tissue and seal with glue mixture before shrinking. Once dry then sand edges smooth with 400 to 600 paper.
Here are the basic tools for covering.
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Postby scigs30 » Mon Dec 07, 2009 8:57 pm

The tail surfaces are covered the same way the bottom of the wing. Remember to sand the edges smooth after covering.
I sand the formers so the tissue will not stick to them. I use sandpaper wrapped around a dowel. Do not sand where you want tissue to stick.
I then cut a piece of tissue to size. Apply glue to outer edges only and spray tissue with water. Then carefully put wet tissue over fuselage and make sure it is straight with no major folds or winkles. Use sharp scissors to cut relief cuts in the tissue so it is easier to pull out wrinkles.
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Postby scigs30 » Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:06 pm

If the tissue does stick, reapply glue to make tissue stick. Make sure to press tissue into glue so it holds and does not pull away, also you can add water to the edges of tissue to soak through to the glue mixture to reactivate. The tissue should lay flat and wrinkle free, should not have to pull and tug much. When dry, trim tissue and seal with glue mixture. Do the second side the same way. When trimmed and dry, sand edges smooth before covering bottom and top. On this bird I covered the rear top dry, and bottom wet.
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Once everything is covered the next step is to trim the edges of the tissue so that the tissue seams are not showing. I fold the tissue back to create a crease, then carefully cut along the crease for a smooth straight cut. Then I glue the edges down for a smooth seam.
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Once everything is dry, spray the fuselage with water to shrink the tissue and let dry. Should produce a wrinkle free finish.
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Postby scigs30 » Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:09 pm

I pin down the wing, stab and rudder. I apply 1/8 washout under both tips. All parts are have been shrunk and will wait for the rain to stop so I can dope the structures.
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Postby wingnut » Tue Dec 08, 2009 3:33 pm

Thanks Scigs! I have to admit I've had my eye on a lot of your build posts for tips and techniques, and this will help me out a lot! Covering has always been the hardest part of building these for me, and I always seem to end up with wrinkles somewhere. seeing how you do it helps make a few things click, especially your method for the upper surface of wings.
Starting today covering my 900 series typhoon, then on to the 500 series I've been collecting! If I can make them look and fly half as good as your's I'll be happy :P Thanks again for the info, and gorgeous 109!
not your average nut.
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Postby scigs30 » Tue Dec 08, 2009 4:06 pm

Wingnut, thanks for your comments. I hope the above pictures help, let me know if I need to explain something. Thanks David
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Postby scigs30 » Tue Dec 08, 2009 6:30 pm

I have everything covered and brushed on 2 coats of 50/50 clear dope. I just have to add the fillets then off to the paint shop. So far the weight as shown is 19 grams. The first Messerschmitt at this stage weighed up over 30 grams.
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Postby ranarc » Wed Dec 09, 2009 10:50 am

Spheeeeechless!!!
Just identified a problem with Internet :-) I shouldn't have posted :-)
TC, Rana
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Postby uavdb » Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:25 pm

scigs....she looks great, and an excellent covering job!
I've been using glue sticks for a few years simply because doping the frame edges three times took too long, and it works well for me.
I need to try your 50/50 Elmers mix since trying new stuff is always interesting.
Maybe I'll try it on my series 500 Hurricane that is in the "partially assembled qeue".
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Postby scigs30 » Wed Dec 09, 2009 6:44 pm

I have been covering with the 50/50 white glue for many years. I did try the glue stick once with no success, so I went back to the white glue method. A lot of people say the white glue method is the hardest to learn especially with domestic tissue.
Right now I am painting my Messerschmitt and hope to have her flying tomorrow.
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Postby scigs30 » Thu Dec 10, 2009 12:45 am

I finished my Messerschmitt and balanced it out for flight tomorrow. Final weight with clay, rubber and ready to fly is 29 grams. My other Messerschmitt came in at 46 grams ready to fly. Will post pictures of flight.
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Postby scigs30 » Thu Dec 10, 2009 3:15 pm

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