Arrow Build

Ask other modelers for a little help / knowledge ?

Postby Phugoid » Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:43 pm

ADW if you want to keep your landing gear but don't want to add weight consider making your own balsa wheels they are much lighter than the plastic ones.

Banana Fuselage syndrome often occurs because the lonegerongs and sheet balsa parts do not have an equal stiffness, due to the parts coming from different sheets. This happens all too often in the Guillows kits where little if any effort is made to match the sheets...............
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Postby ADW 123 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 12:49 pm

they are wooden, and i might just do that. i also contacted cust service, telling them that the wood i have is poorly cut and the stringers and different frame parts (sheets) were heavy except for one. cust service said that they are all cut of the same weight, so thats not possible. well... i dont think so. but i just lived with it. its just important to keep your eye on everthing to make sure everything is nice and strait.
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Postby Phugoid » Fri Apr 01, 2011 1:09 pm

If you need a method to make the balsa wheels just let me know.

They will be half the weight of the wooden ones in the kit......

Andrew
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Postby Seeker » Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:06 pm

Phugoid, give, give!

How do I make good wheels?

My wife just bought me a dremel, but I've no pillar drill, lathe or mill, so I hope it's very simple turning!
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Postby John G Jedinak » Fri Apr 01, 2011 2:13 pm

Yes, I would be interested in your method for making balsa wheels...Thanx, JGJ
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Postby ADW 123 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:02 pm

im all ears...
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Postby Phugoid » Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:27 pm

Ok guys, I need to make some for a Keil Kraft Globe Swift that I have in the works. When I'm ready to go I'll start a new thread rather than Hijacking ADW's Arrow build.

Andrew
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Postby StefanJ » Fri Apr 01, 2011 3:54 pm

So, the middle F1 rib is glued in after the "split?" Nestled over the channel formed by the leading and trailing edge parts?

It is not too clear on the printed plans how that is done.
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Postby ADW 123 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 4:12 pm

so what i did, was when i was laying down the LE and TE, i cut them straight through. then i put a bit of gllue (not a ton), just to hold it there until dihedral is added. for the center rib, i glued that in as normal. i glued in the stringers of the left panel, right panel, and center left pannel. the i just didnt glue the stringers from the center left panel and the center right pannel to the F1 center rib until the dihedral was added. keep in mind, that you only need to prop up the center right side. you do not need to do it on the other side. otherwise you get way too dihedral. keep in mind that this thing is a polyhedral wing if my memory serves me well....
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Postby ADW 123 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 4:14 pm

"When I'mready to go I'll start a new thread rather than Hijacking ADW's Arrow build."


hijacking?? great word..... it makes me chuckle. well, we just say laugh now adays.
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Postby ADW 123 » Fri Apr 01, 2011 10:43 pm

here is everything pinned together. weight of about 22gs

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begining covering-

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at the end of the day-

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the rears of the ribsof the stab, since i sanded it to blend real well with the TE. it made them reall weak back there. unforchunatly, when i covered and shrunk, the TE actually bent down. this thing is gunna be fun to trim.

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forgot to mention my pretty landing gear.

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i completly switched to Scig's method on this one. what i have is ok. when you put down the dots of glue on the outside edges, do i have to let them dry, or do i emediatly put the tissue down? i actually put the glue down, then tissue right over it, and then put some water next to the glue dot (on the outside of the frame) so then it would help hold it on until it dries. not sure if this is right....
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Postby supercruiser » Sat Apr 02, 2011 6:27 am

You Arrow build is coming along very nicely. Nice color combination.


ADW 123 wrote:here is everything pinned together. weight of about 22gs


Sounds like a decent weight at this stage of the game, to me.

ADW 123 wrote: i actually put the glue down, then tissue right over it, and then put some water next to the glue dot (on the outside of the frame) so then it would help hold it on until it dries. not sure if this is right....


If it worked o.k., then that must be right.

If shrinking the tissue makes the tail surfaces warp, you can pre-shrink the tissue and then apply it to tail.
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Postby ADW 123 » Sat Apr 02, 2011 6:33 am

actually, i added the tissue on the tips, and re shrunk and pinned it down for the night, and it looks ok now.
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Postby ADW 123 » Sun Apr 03, 2011 4:21 pm

some progress:

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im getting this method down... this is a good model to try this stuff out on.

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after shrinking the wing: 1/16" on the right for washout, and 1/32" on the left. most of those odd wrinkles have gone away now, or they are barely noticable. i am still learning that letting it sit for hours after shrinking and after attaching will make it look better, before i mess with it.


[img]http://i936.photobucket.com/albums/ad203/swaggerwarnera/DSCN3634.jpg[\img]

how nice and straight it is:

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weight for the stab, rudder, and wing, all of which are finished

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now, just have the fuse to finish covering.
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roughly put together:

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bottom of the wing.

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on the left side of the wing, the tip since it is made out of delicate, thin balsa warped a little. i took of some tissue there and bent it back and am in the process of fixing it. so far, so good. weight of everying together stands at about 28gs. the prop, prop shaft, and spinner weigh about 8-9 gs. so right now, im making my target weight.


not sure what i am going to shrink with. i want to use my nitrate dope, as i do not have enuff bannana oil. i only bought enuff for the smaller planes. the only thing is, i am worked about it sticking to my 1/16" x 1/4" balsa strips that i used to raise the parts with off the board. bannana oil doesnt stick to it, so there was never a problem there.
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Postby Seeker » Sun Apr 03, 2011 5:34 pm

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