I started on my Cessna 150. Once again I decided to replace all the wood with better quality balsa so this kit would fly. All and all this is a nice design and should be a good flier. I did have to bore out 2 of the formers so the rubber would fit better. I will increase the dihedral, make a functional nose block and replace the prop. I just bought a fuselage jig from Rockytop models since I build a lot of former and keel kits. This jig is awesome. I built the first side pinned to the board and added stringers and cabin parts. I then put it on the jig to complete to second side. This made life easy and the fuselage came out nice and straight. This jig is easy to build, but who can beat 20 bucks. I am going to make a bigger jig so when I build my Guillows B-17 the fuselage comes out nice and straight. http://www.rockytopmodels.com/rta-004_details.htm
Did a little more work on my Cessna. The jig made the fuselage a snap. I still have more work to do on the fuselage and sand the tail and wing surfaces. Also I started on a functioning nose block. Now I have to build a bigger jig for my B17. I am going to try to set aside a couple of hours a week to build the B17.
You are to be commended for your craftmanship, beautiful work. I was wondering if you were going with a taildragger configuration as there are a few conversions around and it may cut down on drag and possibly some weight. Hope you will be posting on the B-17 hear it's got a lot of wood and with your quality the bare bones should look spectacular. Later
I will keep the tricycle landing gear, but I will not add the wheel pants in an effort to save weight and drag. The B-17 will be an ongoing slow build, I just had to get it started.
No RC for me ..........The B17 will be a static display model. I will cover it with light silkspan and spay light coats of colored dope. I still want it to have the stick and tissue look vs plastic model look. Even though the plastic model look is awesome, just look at virtual aerodrome pictures. Guillows did a great job with die cutting this kit. I was able to punch out all the formers today without having to use my knife. For the notches I used the " Notcher" from Shortys Basement. Once I start building, I will post pictures.
I have been busy but I took some time today to finish building the frames for the Cessna. I think Guillows did pretty good with this design. Guillows enlarged the Stab so you don't have to add much dihedral. They also designed functioning landing gear so they they won't break on landing. Still no functioning nose block, so I added one. I will not use the wheel pants and I will replace the Prop, Wheels and nose button and shaft. Still have to sand and smooth the wood out then I will begin covering.
So far weight as you see in the pictures is at 25 grams. I should be able to keep her at 30 minus clay and rubber. Should be a good flier.
Added a piece of wood on the cowling for the tissue to attatch so I would not get a wrinkle. Tissue does not do well if there is a step, must be smooth.
Keeping everything straight and smooth makes for an easier covering job.
Added this little filler so covering will come out smooth.
I finally got around to covering my Cessna today. Pictures of the supplies I will be using to attach the tissue. The picture frame is used to hold the tissue when I pre shrink it to prevent warps. I am using Esaki tissue so that is why I am pre shrinking the tissue. the wings are covered with one piece on the bottom and two on top. The way I cover the top for a wrinkle free cover is to just simply let the tissue fall on the structure. You can see from the first picture how smooth the tissue lies on the structure. The next picture you see the tissue on the glued structure prior to me pressing the tissue down onto the glue. As you can see from me doing nothing there are no wrinkles. The last picture is after the tissue has been pressed into the wood and is drying, next I will trim the tissue. I don't pull and tug on the tissue because that causes wrinkles. The tips are covered by themselves, I have to pull and tug on the tips to make them wrinkle free. I then shrink with alcohol then pin the wing to the building board. As you can see nothing fancy for a jig, just pins and wood for washout. The fuselage is covered dry in many many many sections. For me this prevents wrinkles vs trying to cover with large pieces. I don't get exact when cutting out the sections of tissue, that is too much of a pain in the b*&. Instead I carefully brush on my glue and lay the tissue down and press into the glue. Since I cover in sections I don't have to pull and tug. Before the glue dries I fold the tissue back over to where I want to trim it once it is dry. This makes for a nice even edge. I am careful with my knife as to not cut through the covered section.
Now everything is done, I will brush on the dope tomorrow.
I finally got around to covering my Cessna today. Pictures of the supplies I will be using to attach the tissue. The picture frame is used to hold the tissue when I pre shrink it to prevent warps. I am using Esaki tissue so that is why I am pre shrinking the tissue. the wings are covered with one piece on the bottom and two on top. The way I cover the top for a wrinkle free cover is to just simply let the tissue fall on the structure. You can see from the first picture how smooth the tissue lies on the structure. The next picture you see the tissue on the glued structure prior to me pressing the tissue down onto the glue. As you can see from me doing nothing there are no wrinkles. The last picture is after the tissue has been pressed into the wood and is drying, next I will trim the tissue. I don't pull and tug on the tissue because that causes wrinkles. The tips are covered by themselves, I have to pull and tug on the tips to make them wrinkle free. I then shrink with alcohol then pin the wing to the building board. As you can see nothing fancy for a jig, just pins and wood for washout. The fuselage is covered dry in many many many sections. For me this prevents wrinkles vs trying to cover with large pieces. I don't get exact when cutting out the sections of tissue, that is too much of a pain in the b*&. Instead I carefully brush on my glue and lay the tissue down and press into the glue. Since I cover in sections I don't have to pull and tug. Before the glue dries I fold the tissue back over to where I want to trim it once it is dry. This makes for a nice even edge. I am careful with my knife as to not cut through the covered section.
Now everything is done, I will brush on the dope tomorrow.