kit #305 DeHavilland Beaver...Floats?

[backyardbalsapilot]

Your paint job looks amazing. Keep it up!

You've probably answered this already, but what type of masking tape do you use?

[heywooood]

I use the new 3m blue painters tape...don't use the knockoff brands - only 3m on the demarcation lines...use the cheap stuff to complete the bagged areas though - no sense using expensive tape where it isnt needed

[heywooood]

Got a little paint on the wings and one of the floats is completely filled, spackled, and sanded.

[heywooood]

Just a mock up to see how it will look - trying to get the floats spaced apart to scale and square will be a key step.
Then getting the height of the fuselage correct so measuring the aluminium struts correctly can occur- keeping in mind that the struts must be set also to the correct angles in both front view and side view.
This next phase will be a challenge.
The floats still need another coat of sealer - then they will be connected together with the two cross rail supports using a jig to keep them square and at the correct separation.
Then painted aluminium silver and buffed. Then the jig will be used to align the fuselage to the float pair assembly.
All of the struts will be measured, cut and fitted.
I will attach the struts to the aircraft, getting all the angles right - then pass a short length of wire into the struts at the bottom - the floats will be drilled at the attachment points and the wires inserted so that the floats cand be moved up and down at each point until they are flat and square to the aircraft. Then I can apply adhesive to 'fix' them all in place.
I hope it works

[heywooood]

With the first coat of aluminium paint..

[heywooood]

coming along on the float assembly..
I'm using an airfoil shaped aluminium strip with aluminium tubing and some other bits and pieces for the struts.
Next step is to mark and drill out attachement points on the float decks, then cut sandpaper nonskid sections out and apply them to the decks. Then attach the floats to the airframe.

[Mitch]

Very Nice...I think I might be watching the next model of the month coming together!

[heywooood]

Clear coat applied after all of the decals and painting is complete.
I need to fabricate, paint and apply the step bars to the float struts. Also need to apply the red prop warning stripes to the forward pontoons. Then the control surface lines and then the flap actuator arms.
Still a ton of work to do.
Thanks for the complement, Mitch - I really appreciate your encouragement

[heywooood]

I have the non skid applied to the float decks now. I used carpet tape. Double stick and very thin, comes in a 2"wide roll and can be repositioned. Critical as I was having a bit of trouble aligning a couple of them.
This picture is a little dim as it is after sundown and the lighting here in the hangar is not great.

[heywooood]

The float bracing wires are installed - I still need to apply the water rudder rigging.
The control surface demarcation lines are applied.

[heywooood]

Step bars added. Using well sanded toothpicks cut to size and painted to match the aluminium finish.

[heywooood]

I have also installed the cabin windows and windscreen using white glue and strips of prepainted masking tape.

[Coloradoken]

REALLY NICE!

[heywooood]

Thanks ColoradoKen...
looking at these pictures I see something I clearly forgot to do - its even on my checklist. I was supposed to cut a piece of card stock to cover F12 there in the cockpit - painted black or dark gray, it would have made that a much cleaner look to say the least. I remember thinking it was either that, or I should maybe cut away most of that part right up to the stringers. I think that's when I set the whole step aside and that's how it got left undone.
ah well. I don't want to peel the windscreen off now so it can wait.
I have cut and painted a pair of water rudders from sheet acetate using the balsa ones from the float kit for a template. I will set up the parts I need to mimic the pulleys and guides for the control wires and assemble tomorrow.
I won't be installing the pitot tube as I have found those long, spear shaped, wing mounted type are perfect for snaring on whatever happens by and catapulting finished models to the floor - or nearest wall.

[Bill Gaylord]

Looks great. I make checklists, but then forget to look at them.
Gotta love the printing on the wood. Sanding it damages the wood, but we can always use thinner if we remember. Lately I've remembered at the last minute to either paint a dab over the spot before covering, or paint it a bit after covering, but before overall painting. The darn black ink shows through even with covering and a coat of spray, if not pre-painted.